How Chemical Peels Can Help With Acne-Prone Skin

Acne doesn’t stop in adolescence for everyone; it can crop up at any age.¹ Acne-prone skin most commonly results from things a person has little control over, such as genetics and hormonal changes.² However, one type of skin care procedure can help to treat what nature gave you: chemical peels. These treatments help exfoliate and resurface skin and reduce clogging and inflammation of pores.¹

In addition to treating acne itself, chemical peels are often used to address other common skin concerns, such as dark spots and hyperpigmentation, scars and other signs of aging.³

Understanding Acne-Prone Skin

Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin condition affecting the sebaceous (oil-producing) glands in the skin, most commonly on the face, back and chest. Acne can appear in the form of pimples, pustules and cysts and can leave scars. When acne breakouts are severe enough, they may even impact a person’s mental health.⁴

Types of Chemical Peels for Acne-Prone Skin

Chemical peels typically come in three levels of intensity: light, medium and deep. Here are the three main types and their applications in acne-prone skin.³

Light peels

The lightest of the chemical peels typically use alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic acid, naturally found in fruits and other foods.³ They might also use a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), such as salicylic acid.⁵ Light peels are great for shallow and smaller acne blemishes that exist in the topmost layer of the skin and give the skin an uneven or red appearance or cause enlarged pores.⁵

Light chemical peels may be recommended in a series of six to eight peels, two to three weeks apart.⁶

In addition to acne, light peels are often used to treat:⁵

• Enlarged pores
• Mild hyperpigmentation
• Mild redness of the face 
• Oily skin
• Rosacea
• Small wrinkles

Medium peels

These peels can slough away the surface skin cells that lead to the clogged pores of acne. In addition, because of the greater strength, these peels can penetrate below the epidermis to treat persistent and deeper acne, as well as some acne scarring. They can also help stimulate the skin’s natural collagen and elastin.⁷

Medium peels are also used to treat other concerns, such as:⁷

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Uneven skin tone (hyperpigmentation)

They last longer than light peels (approximately two to six months) and have a longer recovery time, and may require multiple sessions with your skin care professional to determine the appropriate frequency.⁸

Deep peels

Much like other peel types, deep peels exfoliate skin. However, because these peels use the strongest peeling agents at higher concentrations to penetrate the deepest skin layers (the mid-reticular dermis), they can also help smooth out the appearance of severe acne scars and deeper wrinkles.³

Peeling agents used in deep peels often include a higher strength TCA (around 50%) plus other agents, such as phenol/croton oil solution.³ An anesthetic may accompany this peel type, as deep peels sometimes require it.⁸

Deep peels can have benefits that last for years — meaning most people may only ever get one in a lifetime — but you can always consult with your skin care professional for advice.⁹

How Chemical Peels Help With Specific Concerns

Chemical peels are versatile in treating a wide range of conditions. Whether you have acne-prone skin or other conditions, talk to a skin care professional about a chemical peel if you have any of the following concerns:¹⁰

• Acne. Peels help prevent dead skin cell buildup and reduce pimple breakouts.
• Dark spots. Peels can help smooth out age spots, freckles and dark patches.
• Scars. Peels can stimulate the skin’s natural healing processes to smooth out scars from acne or other sources.
• Wrinkles and fine lines. Peels remove layers of skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and stimulating collagen and elastin.

The Treatment Process

While the idea of a “chemical” peel may sound daunting, each type is slightly different in application, sensation and results:

During the peel

When your chemical peel begins, your skin care professional will first clean and remove oils from your skin. They might also put protective petroleum jelly on any area they don’t want you to receive the treatment. Then they will brush on the peeling agent.³

Light peel. With the application of a light peel, it’s normal to experience some mild skin tingling or burning for several minutes, which subsides once the peel agent is neutralized. Some dermatologists may provide a fan to cool the sensation during the treatment.¹¹ Light peels, like those using BHAs or AHAs, can have antibacterial effects and help reduce inflammation and blackheads.¹

Medium peel. A medium peel may cause a more intense stinging sensation, and for a longer duration, around 15 to 20 minutes.¹¹ You may get numbing cream or gel in advance if you are especially sensitive and an icy cloth or gel after the procedure.¹¹ The exfoliation associated with these peels, like those using TCA, should be beneficial to deeper acne lesions and discoloration.¹

Deep peel. Because a deep peel is the most intense of the three types, you may be given a local anesthetic to minimize discomfort. The peeling agent will be brushed on and left on for the treatment time. Later, your skin will be treated with a special ointment and possibly medicated gauze.¹²

Chemical Peel Recovery and Aftercare

Each peel type has slightly different aftercare suggestions. But for all peel types, generally speaking, the following may be recommended for a minimum of several days to a week after treatment:¹³

• Avoid make-up (talk to your skin care professional for duration)
• Avoid sun exposure (wear sunscreen when exposed)
• Don’t pick or scratch skin (let skin peel naturally)
• Expect sensitive, possibly red and irritated skin (duration will depend on peel type)
• Stay moisturized

Light. After your light peel, redness is common and will usually resolve within 12 hours, though sensitive skin can be red for several days.¹¹ Skin flaking and skin tightness are also common.¹²

Medium. After a medium peel, skin may need more recovery time than a light peel — skin may feel sunburned and sensitive before it begins to peel. Recovery time may be more like seven to 14 days.¹³

Deep. Deep peels have the longest recovery time, with a minimum of two weeks before typically returning to normal activities, but up to three months for recovery. Crusting, skin redness, swelling and peeling are common.¹²

Preserving the results of your chemical peel for as long as possible afterwards is similar to the pre-peel skin care routine:¹⁴

• Avoid picking or scratching, and follow your skin care professional’s advice
• Keep your skin moisturized
• Protect your skin from the sun

When to Consult a Dermatologist

In some cases, it’s a good idea to consult with a dermatologist before your peel. Reach out to yours if you:¹⁴

• Are already using acne medications
• Are pregnant, breastfeeding or planning to become pregnant
• Are prone to developing keloid scars without careful peel selection, more common in darker skin complexions (Fitzpatrick type IV–VI)¹
• Have a chronic medical condition
• Have a history of cold sores (herpes)¹
• Have sensitive or eczema-prone skin, rosacea, or open wounds¹

Chemical Peels Offer a Solution for Acne-Prone Skin

While acne-prone skin can be frustrating and uncomfortable, you don’t have to suffer unnecessarily. Consult with your dermatologist about finding the chemical peel solution that is best for your skin, minimizing uncomfortable symptoms like breakouts and inflammation, to keep you looking and feeling great.

Frequently Asked Questions About Chemical Peels for Acne-Prone Skin

Because chemical peels use a variety of intense exfoliating agents, it’s normal to have some concerns about the effects. Here are some answers to common questions.

CareCredit Credit Card Financing for Dermatology

The CareCredit credit card makes it easy to pay for dermatology visits, over-the-counter treatments and prescription medications at locations within the CareCredit network.* Start enhancing your skin today and find a dermatologist near you that accepts CareCredit. Continue your wellness journey by downloading the CareCredit Mobile App to manage your account, find a provider on the go and easily access the Well U blog for more great articles, podcasts and videos.

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 Author Bio

Jordan Rosenfeld has been freelance writing for 21 years about finances, health, education and more. Her work has appeared in The Atlantic, The Billfold, Good Magazine, GoBanking Rates, Daily Worth, Quartz, Medical Economics, The New York Times, Paypal, The Washington Post and more.